Crate Training

Crate training can often be misconstrued as a cruel thing to do to dogs, but it actually offers a safe place for fearful dogs, is extremely useful as a management tool, and as a place for your dog to rest. If properly introduced, the crate should not be stressful! This is where good things should happen and where they can settle in and take a snooze or chew on a bone. For young puppies, a crate is the main key to potty training. Without it, the other option is 24/7 supervision and the ability to rush them to their potty spot to avoid accidents, but then you are without a way to help the puppy strengthen their bladder. The following information are ways to introduce the crate and how it can be utilized.

What kind of crate should you use and what should the setup look like?

Years ago, there were only a few types of crates, those being a wire crate or an airline crate. Nowadays, as dogs are now considered more a part of the family, many more crates have come on the market to look more comforting or to match your furniture. More important than how the crate looks is does it function for what you need it for? Can it secure your dog safely? Is it the right size to prevent them from having an accident on one end and laying on the other? Will your dog be tempted to chew on it if it’s wood or plastic?

I like to keep it simple and go with a wire crate with a divider (which is what Gus the Keeshond is in in the picture). I purchase the crate at the size I predict my puppy will be as an adult and then will use the divider to make the space bigger as they grow. This avoids having to buy a new crate every time your puppy outgrows their current crate, since all I have to do is move the divider as they grow. If I need to transport the crate, I can fold it up and it will take up much less space than most other crates.

The airline crate is another good choice. These are the carriers normally used to transport your dog during flights if they are flying in cargo. They are secure and more enclosed, so they can provide a sense of security for your dog. When Newt was a puppy, the wire crate I had ordered was delayed, so I temporarily used an airline crate that was just his size. He quickly outgrew it, but for the time being, it did the job.

To set your crate up so your puppy is set up for success, you want the space for them to be just big enough for them to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably. Dogs generally do not like to soil where they sleep and where they eat, so you do not want to have a crate too large that they will be able to use one side to potty and the other to sleep. This is why I avoid utilizing playpens since they offer the puppy too much freedom to make mistakes.

If seeing activity outside of their crate is too overstimulating, getting a cover can help them settle. Wire crates have covers fitted to their size, which many have little windows to offer more airflow. You could also use a blanket, but this is often a tempting item to grab and pull into the crate. Anything close to the crate should be moved away because if they can reach it, they will likely grab it!

If they have a tendency to tear at bedding, there are crate mates that are made to be more durable, but some puppies might just prefer to go without. Newt would always push his blankets to the back of his crate and lie on the plastic bottom tray. He’s always preferred the floor to a plush bed.

When putting objects in their crate, I try to minimize the items so they are not crowded in by toys and chews. I don’t put a water bowl in with them, since it often is knocked over and I like to have more control over their water intake as they are still potty training. Stick to maybe one toy and one or two items that they can chew or lick. Avoid stuffed toys if they like to shred them. We don’t want them accidentally ingesting the stuffing! For the pups that aren’t destructive, there are toys on the market that help soothe new babies, such as the stuffed dog you see with baby Newt. These types of toys often have a heartbeat sound and a place to put a warm water bottle or heating pad. Quite honestly, Newt had no real interest in this toy. I found putting a large stuffed animal in his crate with him to stimulate cuddling with his mother and his siblings. It was much more effective! As you can see in the previous picture, I used a stuffed alpaca I won at Dave & Buster’s. It doesn’t need to be fancy!

How to Introduce the Crate

The crate should be a place where all the good things happen! This shouldn’t be used as a punishment, but rather a place to help them calm and to help you manage behaviors, such as potty training and destructiveness. If you send your child to their room, there might be some protest, but if all of their things are there such as their books and video game console, they will find something to do to pass the time. If that is where they are used to taking their meals, it won’t feel like they are missing out on sitting at the dining table. This is the type of environment we want to set up for your puppy. Feeding their meals in the crate not only builds a good association with going in the crate, but it also is a way to prevent an accident from happening as soon as they finish eating.

When spending time in their crate, they should be given something to keep their minds busy and to help them self-soothe. Save these high value items for crate time, so there is more reason for them to want to spend more time in their space.

There are many items on the market that can be stuffed with yummy treats and given to your puppy as a temporary activity as they settle in. Freezing these can make them last longer. Things I like to use to stuff or spread onto these toys are peanut butter, plain yogurt, cottage or creamed cheese, pumpkin, or wet food.

Having something to chew, such as a bully stick or a yak chew, is something that you should check regularly to make sure it has not been chewed down to a small piece that could be a choking hazard. With a yak chew, those small pieces can be microwaved and turned into a puff that make for a crunchy treat!

A huge step in making the crate less stressful is how your dog enters the crate. If they are pushed in there kicking and screaming, of course the crate is going to seem scary! If we put going into the crate on cue, then they are choosing to go in without the protesting. There are a couple ways to do this.

Luring

• Toss treats towards the back of the crate.

• Mark and reward with more treats as all four paws step into the crate.

• Repeat this several times until it seems your puppy has caught on that good things happen when they step inside.

• Add in the cue (crate, home, kennel up, etc) the next time they step inside.

• Move to saying the cue first, give them a moment to think about it, then reward when they figure it out and go into their crate.

• If they are confused, go back to luring and saying the cue as they step in.

Leading

• Attach a leash to either a flat collar or martingale collar on your puppy.

• Sitting just to the side of the opening of the crate, apply gentle pressure towards the back of the crate, encouraging your puppy to step inside.

• There may be resistance, but keep the tension towards the back of the crate, not allowing slack on the lead unless they take a step forward. So there is no option to back up, just move forward.

• As they walk forward, be sure to immediately give slack to the leash to signal that’s the behavior you’re looking for.

• Once all four paws are in, reward heavily and then give space for them to come out if they want to. Some dogs may want to rush back out, but you can still drop treats into the crate to build value.

• Repeat this several times and you will find they are more willingly stepping in, realizing that they receive good things and that going into the crate doesn’t always mean being locked inside of it.

• Give the cue as they are understanding the behavior and more freely offering it.

Notes to Remember:

• You don’t always have to close the crate door behind them. Waiting until they walk in and then coming up and closing the door will create a puppy that will avoid you as you approach the crate. Instead, allow the door to be open sometimes, such as meal times you are free to supervise.

• If they bring any of the special toys or chews out of the crate, bring it back to the crate. They may try repeatedly to take it out and work on it elsewhere. In that case, take the items away or put the items in the crate and close the door. Those are for crate time only!

• Dogs will often whine at first, particularly new puppies. This is a new concept to many of them and they won’t understand what the crate is for just yet. They are also experiencing the frustration of not being able to engage with you whenever they want. This is good for them and avoids them developing worse separation anxiety down the road!

• Don’t just use the crate for when you are leaving or for bedtime. Make it part of your routine. If you only use it for when you leave, your dog will associate the crate to you leaving. Use it for after mealtimes, after a walk or vigorous play session, or to bring them to after they’ve fallen asleep elsewhere. This will be like carrying your child to their bed after they’ve fallen asleep on the couch. The more the crate is a part of their day to day, the easier it will be for them to become accustomed to it!